If you are new to the world of wigs and toppers, it can be difficult to understand the lingo. Here are some common phrases you might come across and what they mean. Understanding these phrases can help you to understand which wig or topper is right for you and why some pieces are more expensive than others.
Wig cap (as part of a wig's construction)
A wig cap is the base material of a wig that the hairs or fibres are attached to. They come in a variety of constructions and sizes. Common sizes are called Small or Petite, Average and Large. You can also get Extra Small (XS) and Extra Large (XL), etc. Some brands such as Ellen Wille offer a petite/average size.
Each brand measures their wig sizing slightly differently, so an average cap in one brand many not be the exact same measurements as an average cap wig from another brand. Wigs are usually measured in inches, for example an average-sized wig tends to have a circumference of 21.5”. There are usually three measurements you need for a wig: the circumference, front to back (or nape), and ear to ear.
Wig cap (to be worn underneath a wig)
The phrase 'wig cap' can also be used to describe a thin cap that is worn underneath your wig to act as a barrier between your head and the wig. You do not have to wear a wig cap underneath your wig, but some people find it more comfortable – particularly if your wig is itchy. Wig caps can also be useful to keep hair tucked into your wig. Wig caps come in many different materials, such as bamboo (see photo right), nylon and fishnet material - a bit like a pair of tights. View our bamboo wig caps here.
Ear tabs
These are the parts of the wig that sit in front of the ear and near the temple to replace the hair that is sometimes called your sideburns. They can also be used help adjust the wig’s placement, particularly on lace front wigs (the lace is the most fragile part of the wig, so when adjusting your wig you want to use the ear tabs rather than pulling on the lace). Some wigs come without ear tabs and these are usually for people who have hair and pull their own hair out in front of their ears. If you do not have any hair, it is best to get a wig with ear tabs as they replace the hair in this area. Our Luxury human hair wigs come with clips on the ear tabs, which can be removed if you do not have any hair.
Lace front
Lace front refers to a piece of lace at the hairline of a wig. This creates a natural-looking hairline and allows the wearer to style their hair back off their face. Some pieces will come with the lace already cut, so you won’t need to do anything to it, but with other brands the lace is uncut (usually 1-2 inches long) and the customer will need to cut the lace back themselves. This is best done with small, curved nail scissors. Rather than cutting a straight line, you want to cut a slightly curved, jagged line to help the lace blend in with your skin.
Parting types: Lace parting
A lace parting means that the parting area of the wig is made from a fine layer of lace and each individual hair is tied into this section by hand. Some pieces will have a larger parting area (called a multidirectional parting), which means you can move the hair so that it has a centre parting or a side parting. Some wigs will have a smaller parting area (usually around 1” wide) and this is set in the centre or off to one side, meaning you cannot change the parting.
The benefits of lace is that it is thin and light. You can see your own scalp through the lace. However, with darker hair colours this means you can see the knots where each hair has been tied into the parting (they look like a little dot). Some brands bleach the knots on human hair lace wigs (see bleached knots section below for more info). You cannot bleach the knots on synthetic wigs.
Monofilament parting
A monofilament parting uses a layer of transparent mesh, which is similar to lace but slightly thicker and more durable. As above, some pieces will have a larger parting area (called a multidirectional parting area), which means you can move the hair so that it has a centre parting or a side parting. Some wigs will have a smaller parting area (usually around 1” wide) and this is set in the centre or off to one side, meaning you cannot change the parting.
Double monofilament parting
A double monofilament parting has two layers of transparent mesh. Having a double monofilament parting means that the exposed knots on the exterior monofilament are covered and provides added protection for the scalp. Some single lace or monofilament partings will have a thin transparent liner sewn in underneath the parting area for this same reason.
Silk parting
Silk top partings mean that each hair is sewn by hand through a layer of silk, so there are no knots on show and it looks like the hair is growing out of a scalp. These are one of the most realistic looking partings. Her Hair My Head silk top wigs come with a comb that sits just behind the hairline (this can be removed for customers with no hair).
Because there are more layers of material, silk top partings can sit slightly less flat than lace or single monofilament partings. For wigs with a silk top parting, we find that the hair at the hairline naturally wants to fall forward and so these wigs are best worn with a fringe cut into them. Silk top partings also do not have return hairs (see note below).
Bleached knots
At Her Hair My Head we do not bleach the knots on our lace wigs as this can shorten the lifespan of the wig, so on darker colours, the knots will be visible as small dots. These can be covered up using scar tape (a thin plastic tape) on the underside of the lace or by using a Knot Blurring Pen directly onto the knots.
Return hairs
Wigs and toppers with lace or monofilament partings can have return hairs showing. These are a result of how the hair is attached to the wig and they are shorter hairs that are usually 1-2” long that can show at the top of the wig. When you brush the piece, you may notice these small hairs sticking out, resembling flyaway hairs.
Wig cap base types: Hand-tied cap
In hand-tied wigs, every synthetic fibre or strand of hair is sewn into the cap individually using a hand-knotting technique. Hand-tied wigs have a bit more stretch than open-wefted or closed-wefted wigs making them more comfortable to wear. They can also look more natural. Because more of the hair is sewn in by hand, these wigs have a higher price tag than other wig cap constructions.
Closed-wefted cap
A wig with a close-wefted cap means that the back and sides of the cap are made up of wefts of hair (strips of hair sewn onto a piece of material) that are then sewn onto the base of the wig. This means that the inside of the cap is closed and the material of the wefts shouldn’t irritate your skin.
Open-wefted cap
This is usually a more basic cap construction and so is cheaper to buy than close-wefted or hand-tied wigs. It is the same principle as the closed-wefted cap (see above), but there are open gaps between the wefts. This type of wig cap can feel slightly cooler as air is able to get to your head between the wefts. Some people find open-wefted wigs itchier and will wear a wig cap beneath this type of wig.
Glueless wig
At Her Hair My Head, all of our wigs do not require glue or tape to keep them on your head. Some wigs from other brands that come with lace all the way around the wig (also known as pony wigs) or that have lace that goes all the way behind the ear tabs, will need to be glued or taped onto your skin to keep the lace front in place and the wig attached to your head.
Nape/extended nape
The nape of the wig is the part that sits on the back of your neck. If a wig has an extended nape that means there is extra material in that area (usually about 1-2cm long) that means the bottom of the wig sits slightly lower down to where your hairline would be. An extended nape can be useful to make the wig look more natural from the back.
Permatese
Permatese is like Marmite – you either love it or you hate it! This is something that only appears in synthetic wig fibres and it is a way of giving the hair more volume at the top and crown. Permatese means that the fibres have been crimped at the base, so that they create a thicker look and more volume in the wig.
Density
Density refers to the amount of hair on the wig and not the thickness of each strand. Be aware that there is no industry standard for density and this can vary from brand to brand. So, 120% density in one brand may be totally different to 120% in another. As a general rule, anything at 110% density or less is considered low density, 120% is a natural density and 130-150% is a high density.
View our in-stock Luxury human hair wigs
View our pre-order Luxury human hair wigs
We also stock various other wig brands, including Jon Renau, Ellen Wille, Raquel Welch, Trendco and Hairworld. View our in-stock branded wigs here.
If you would like to order a wig or topper from any of the above brands, email georgina@herhairmyhead.co.uk or call 07359 573 970.
